Kakunodate Festival

Overview

The Kakunodate Festival, officially known as the Kakunodate Festival Yama Gyōji (Kakunodate Matsuri no Yama Gyōji), is an annual festival held from September 7th to 9th in the castle town of Kakunodate, Semboku City, Akita Prefecture. It is conducted in conjunction with the festivals of Shinmeisha, the town's chief Shinto shrine, and Jōraku-san Jōju-in Yakushidō, a Buddhist temple. This festival was designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan on February 21, 1991, and in 2016, it was registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage as one of the 33 constituent elements of the "Yama, Hoko, and Yatai, float festivals of Japan." The festival's most prominent feature is the parading of large, decorated floats called "Yama" through the historic streetscapes of the Edo period, each carrying warrior dolls or Kabuki-themed dolls from the town's various neighborhoods.

This festival is a prayer for regional prosperity, commercial success, and the safety and well-being of families, and it has been carried on while preserving its traditional form (in recent years it has been canceled in some years due to the impact of infectious disease; please check the official website for the latest information on whether the event will be held). Within each neighborhood, a "Hariban" (festival lodge) is established to oversee the festival, welcoming the portable shrine (mikoshi) and managing the movement of the floats. During the festival period, the town resonates with the lively "Oyama-bayashi" festival music, captivating spectators with elegant hand-dances, vigorous float parades, and the spectacular "Yama-buttsuke" (float collisions).

History and Origin

The origins of the Kakunodate Festival Yama Gyōji can be traced to the records of the "Satake Kitake Diary" (Satake Kitake Nikki). There are various theories about the year of its first appearance; it is variously said to have been held as the "Kashima Festival" in the early Edo period, or to appear by name in somewhat later records. Originally held on December 8th, the feast day of Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha), it later settled, through various historical changes, into its current schedule of September 7th to 9th. In any case, it has continued as an event of the castle town of Kakunodate since at least the Edo period.

At the heart of the festival lies a syncretism of nature worship and faith in Yakushi Nyorai, which has been traditionally passed down in the Kakunodate region. Legend has it that Yakushi Nyorai, the deity of healing, would transform from the "Mountain God" into the "Rice Field God" to bring a bountiful harvest, and then return to the mountains on December 8th. Therefore, in the festival, a "Yama" (mountain) is constructed as a temporary dwelling for the deity, using a framework of about 4 to 5 jō (approximately 15 meters) high, with a "Megō" (eye basket) at the top, covered in black cotton cloth and adorned with pine branches, to welcome the gods.

Kakunodate developed as a castle town under the Satake Kitake family, but this festival was centered on the "Tomachi" (townspeople's district), not the "Uchimachi" (samurai district). The townspeople's residential areas were organized into units called "Chōnai," and the system of each neighborhood producing its own Yama floats expanded the scale of the festival as the townspeople's district grew. It is believed that the festival originally involved portable floats (kaguri yama), but around 1913 (Taisho 2), they transitioned to the "pulled floats" (hiki yama) seen today.

As evidenced by its first appearance in the Satake Kitake Diary, the festival has been deeply connected with successive lords and local dignitaries. In the past, a distinction was made between the "Nobori Yama" (ascending floats) that were paraded for the lord of the Satake Kitake family to view, and the "Kudari Yama" (descending floats) on their return journey. This tradition continues today, where the custom of performing dances before the descendants of the Satake Kitake family is carefully preserved. This blend of historical prestige and community solidarity forms the foundation of the festival.

Highlights

The Yama Floats (Hiki Yama) The Yama floats are large, temporary structures assembled each year for the festival. They are primarily made of wood, such as oak, and were once tied with rope, but are now secured with bolts and metal fittings. At the front of the float is a slightly slanted section called "Mīnja" (water house), where one to three life-sized warrior or Kabuki dolls are displayed. At the rear, a comical-looking "Okuri Ningyō" (sending-off doll) is placed, often alongside two to five sake barrels. Between these front and rear dolls, the center of the float is covered with black cloth to represent a "Mokko" (a mountain-like form).

Oyama-bayashi Music and Hand-dancing On top of the Yama floats, musicians (hayashikata) play instruments such as the shinobue (bamboo flute), ōdaiko (large drum), kodaiko (small drum), tsuzumi (shoulder drum), surigane (small gong), and shamisen (three-stringed instrument). Dancers perform hand-dances (teodori) to this music. This music is called "Oyama-bayashi," which is derived from the Edo-style festival music. It is said that the current form was created in the late Edo period through the collaboration of samurai who were Noh enthusiasts and townspeople who were fans of nagauta (long epic songs). The repertoire includes pieces like "Nobori Yama-bayashi" (for ascending floats), "Dōchū-bayashi" (for descending floats), "Ken-bayashi," and "Nihon Take," as well as arrangements of folk songs like "Akita Jinku." The music must never stop while the float is moving, as a silent float is considered a "dead float" (Shini Yama).

Yama-buttsuke (The Float Collision) The most thrilling spectacle of the festival is the "Yama-buttsuke," where two Yama floats violently crash into each other. Due to the narrow streets of Kakunodate, it is difficult for two floats to pass each other. When floats meet head-on, "negotiations" (kōshō) are held to determine which will give way or turn back. If these negotiations break down, the floats charge into a full-force collision, known as "Yama-buttsuke." This battle is the climax of the festival, often occurring on the night of September 9th, but it is difficult to predict exactly when and where it will happen, and this spontaneity is part of its appeal.

The Negotiations (Kōshō) The outcome of the "Yama-buttsuke" is determined by the "negotiators" (kōshōin), two young men wearing yellow sashes. In principle, the "Nobori Yama" (ascending floats heading to the shrine) have the right of way, but the negotiators argue over the current situation and the priority of passage. The negotiators stay in contact with the "responsible person" (sekininsha), the highest authority of the float, and also play a role in visiting houses to convey the float's intentions when it performs hand-dances in front of them. This unique negotiation process is crucial for maintaining order during the festival.

Oki Yama (Stationary Floats) In designated locations at the festival site, non-mobile "Oki Yama" (stationary floats) are set up. These are placed at three specific locations: in front of the torii gate of Shinmeisha, in front of Jōju-in Yakushidō, and at the intersection of "Tatemachi." Like the Hiki Yama, these floats are covered with black cotton cloth and shaped like mountains, traditionally using a "Megō" (eye basket) at the top. It is said that in the past, these were set up in vacant lots or the gardens of wealthy families. They provide a static display for the enjoyment of town residents and visitors throughout the festival.

Hariban (Festival Lodges) Each neighborhood establishes a "Hariban," a festival lodge that serves as the operational base for the Hiki Yama. Inside, hanging scrolls of Amaterasu Ōmikami (the Sun Goddess) and Yakushi Rurikō Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha) are displayed. The front of the lodge, facing the street, is decorated with a signboard, pine branches, and pampas grass. During the festival, officials such as the Nenban-chō (yearly head) stay here, handling young men from other neighborhoods who come to negotiate and authorizing the passage of floats. These Hariban-based organizations form the foundation for the smooth operation of the festival.

Event Information and Access

• Event Name: Kakunodate Festival Yama Gyōji (Kakunodate no Omatsuri)
• Location: Throughout Kakunodate Town, Semboku City, Akita Prefecture (mainly around the Edo-period streetscapes)
• Time of Year: Annually from September 7th to 9th (Please check the official website for the latest schedule and cancellation status)
• Access:
• By Train: A short walk from Kakunodate Station on the JR Tazawako Line / Akita Shinkansen.
• By Car: Approximately 1 hour 10 minutes from the Morioka IC on the Tohoku Expressway, or about 40 minutes from the Omagari IC on the Akita Expressway.
• Contact: Semboku City Tourism Information Center "Kakunodate-ekimae Kura" (Phone: 0187-54-2700)
• Admission: Free to watch
• Organizer: Kakunodate Festival Yama Gyōji Executive Committee
• Official Website: https://tazawako-kakunodate.com/

Surrounding Area Information

Kakunodate is a historic castle town known as the "Little Kyoto of Michinoku." The main venue for the festival is the area around the Bukeyashiki (Samurai District) and its surrounding streets, where black-lattice fences and the atmosphere of the Edo period remain strong. This area is a primary route for the Yama floats, and the combination of traditional architecture and the festival's floats offers a unique spectacle for visitors. The Kakunodate Station area has a tourism information center, "Kakunodate-ekimae Kura," where you can obtain the latest festival information and maps.

During the festival, many areas in the town center become pedestrian-only zones, so visitors arriving by car should use designated temporary parking lots. The Akita Shinkansen is a convenient mode of public transport, taking approximately 3 hours and 15 minutes from Tokyo Station to Kakunodate Station. Around the station, there are many restaurants and souvenir shops where visitors can enjoy local specialties like "Kiritanpo" (mashed rice cakes) and "Hinai-jidori" chicken.

Even outside of the festival period, Kakunodate is a popular tourist destination known for its beauty in all four seasons. In spring, the weeping cherry trees (shidarezakura) in the Samurai District are world-famous and attract many visitors. Autumn brings beautiful foliage, and winter blankets the town in a quiet, serene snowscape. Nearby, there are also attractions like Lake Tazawa and the Nyuto Onsen hot spring resort area, making it a great destination for combined sightseeing with the festival. For those interested in the history and culture of the town, visiting the Satake Kitake family museum or the workshops of the traditional craft "Kabazaiku" (cherry bark craft) is highly recommended.

Related Information

1. Cultural Property Designation: Designated as a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property on February 21, 1991.
2. UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage: Registered in 2016 as one of the 33 constituent elements of "Yama, Hoko, and Yatai, float festivals of Japan."
3. Kakunodate Sōchinju Shinmeisha: The central Shinto shrine of the festival; the Yoimatsuri (eve festival) is held on September 7th, and the Shinko-sai (portable shrine procession) on September 8th.
4. Shōraku-san Jōju-in Yakushidō: The other central temple of the festival; the Saiden Kechō Hōyō (opening ceremony) is held on September 8th, and the Mikoshi junkō (portable shrine parade) on September 9th.
5. Structure of the Hiki Yama: The floats are composed of parts such as the front carrying pole, side carrying poles, rear carrying pole, railing, dolls, the mokko (mountain form), wheels, and towing ropes. The current form is said to have been established around 1913 (Taisho 2).
6. Preservation of Oyama-bayashi: The "Oyama-bayashi" music played at the festival was selected as a folk cultural property requiring measures for documentation in 1973.
7. Festival Schedule: The festival spans three days: September 7th is the eve festival for Shinmeisha; September 8th is the main festival for Shinmeisha and the eve festival for Yakushidō; September 9th is the main festival for Yakushidō.
8. Number of Floats: Since 1997, the festival has featured 18 Hiki Yama floats, and this number has been maintained to the present day.

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