Nagasaki Kunchi

Overview

Nagasaki Kunchi is the autumn grand festival of Suwa Shrine, the tutelary shrine of Nagasaki. Held over three days from October 7 to 9 every year, the entire town takes part. Counted alongside Hakata Kunchi and Karatsu Kunchi as one of the Three Great Kunchi of Japan, it is Nagasaki's largest festival, with a history of roughly 370 years. Designated a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property, it is known throughout the country for its gorgeous dedicatory dances full of exotic flavor.

At the heart of the festival are the dedicatory dances that each odori-cho, or dancing town, offers before the deity of Suwa Shrine. A rich variety of performances, called dashimono, are presented, including the Ja-odori dragon dance, the spouting whale, and Kokkodesho, strongly reflecting the Chinese and Dutch tastes unique to Nagasaki, which remained open to the outside world even under national isolation. The venues include Suwa Shrine, Central Park, the Otabisho, and Yasaka Shrine, and during the festival the whole city is caught up in the celebration.

History and Origins

The beginning of Nagasaki Kunchi dates back to the eleventh year of the Kanei era (1634). It is said to have originated when two courtesans of the then Tayu-machi (later divided into Maruyama-machi and Yoriai-machi), named Takao and Otowa, dedicated the Noh chant Komai before the deity of Suwa Shrine. This year, 1634, was also when construction of the artificial island of Dejima began in Nagasaki and the famous Meganebashi bridge was built, coinciding with a period when the town of Nagasaki was developing greatly as an international trading port.

Thereafter, Nagasaki Kunchi grew more splendid year by year, aided by the support of the Nagasaki magistrate. Many performances with exotic Chinese and Dutch tastes were incorporated into the dedicatory dances, and from the Edo period the festival is said to have won nationwide fame as a gorgeous rite. The character of Nagasaki as the sole window to the outside world under national isolation nurtured performances of an international richness not seen in other festivals.

As for the origin of the name Kunchi, the common view is that a Chinese custom of celebrating the ninth day of the ninth month of the old calendar as the auspicious Choyo festival was transmitted, and the ninth day, kunichi, came to be read kunchi and to mean the festival day. That the influence of Chinese culture is inscribed in the very name of the festival symbolizes the origins of Nagasaki Kunchi.

Today there are 58 dancing towns throughout Nagasaki City that present dedicatory dances, and these are divided into seven groups. The turn for each dancing town to present its dance comes once every seven years, and each town spends a long time preparing for its moment in the spotlight, which comes only once in seven years. This rotation system has served to hand down the skills and traditions of the performances to the next generation without letting them die out. Performances such as the dragon dance, the spouting whale, and Kokkodesho are designated National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties.

Highlights

The valiant and splendid Ja-odori dragon dance　The performance that best represents Nagasaki Kunchi is the Ja-odori. Based on a dragon dance transmitted from China, many bearers manipulate a dragon with a long body, making it dance in swirling coils as it chases a ball. The sight of the dragon undulating in time with the fierce accompaniment of gongs and drums is full of power, embodying Nagasaki's deep connection with Chinese culture.

A competition of varied performances　Besides the dragon dance, each dancing town dedicates performances of great ingenuity, such as the spouting whale, which shows a device of a whale grandly blowing water, Kokkodesho, in which a float carried by many people is vigorously tossed up, and the kawabune, a pulled float shaped like a boat. There are also pulled floats evoking Dutch ships and Chinese ships, and this exotic variety is a charm unique to Nagasaki Kunchi.

The call of Motte-koi　When a dedicatory dance ends, the audience calls out for an encore with cries of Motte-koi, motte-koi. Responding to this, the performers present their dance once more, a specialty of Nagasaki Kunchi in which audience and performers together enliven the festival. Learning the distinctive calls and taking part lets one savor the festival's excitement all the more deeply.

The free-to-enjoy niwasaki-mawari　In addition to dedicating dances at Suwa Shrine and elsewhere, the dancing towns perform niwasaki-mawari, visiting government offices, shops, and businesses around the city to present their performances. This can be viewed for free, with the pleasure of encountering the dragon dance and pulled floats in unexpected places around town. It is a scene unique to Nagasaki Kunchi, in which the festival's excitement spreads throughout the whole city.

The niwamise of the previous evening　Ahead of the main event, the dancing towns hold niwamise, in which their pulled floats, costumes, and decorations are displayed to the public. From the evening, one can view up close the gorgeous costumes and equipment set out around town, heightening anticipation for the dedicatory dances of the following days. It is a precious opportunity to glimpse the splendor behind the scenes of the festival.

Event Information and Access

Nagasaki Kunchi is held over three days on October 7, 8, and 9 every year, on the same dates each year. The main venues are Suwa Shrine, Central Park, the Otabisho, and Yasaka Shrine, and the times of the dedicatory dances and the viewing methods at each dancing ground vary by year. Viewing tickets are required at dancing grounds such as Central Park, but the niwasaki-mawari can be enjoyed for free.

Because details such as the times of the dedicatory dances, ticket sales, and the niwasaki-mawari schedule vary from year to year, please be sure to check the announcements of the Nagasaki Traditional Performing Arts Promotion Association and of Nagasaki Kunchi before visiting. The nearest stop to Suwa Shrine is the Suwa Jinja stop of the Nagasaki Electric Tramway, which can also be reached by tram from JR Nagasaki Station. As the area becomes very crowded during the festival, use of public transportation is recommended.

Around the Area

Suwa Shrine, the venue, is the general tutelary shrine of Nagasaki, also called Chinzei Taisha, known for its long stone-step approach and its views from the heights. The city of Nagasaki is famous as a town of slopes, and around Suwa Shrine are scattered historic temples and shrines and atmospheric sloping lanes. Meganebashi, deeply connected to the festival's origins, spans the city center as one of Japan's oldest arched stone bridges, and many people visit it as well.

As the sole port town open to the outside world during the era of national isolation, Nagasaki nurtured a distinctive culture blending Japanese, Chinese, and Dutch elements. There are many sights conveying the history of international exchange, such as Dejima, Glover Garden, the ruins of the Chinese Quarter, and Oura Cathedral. The exotic performances of Nagasaki Kunchi were themselves born out of this historical background of Nagasaki.

As for food, one can enjoy flavors unique to Nagasaki, such as shippoku cuisine, champon and sara-udon influenced by Chinese cooking, and castella. During the festival season, along with the atmosphere of autumn, this internationally rich food culture is also a charm of sightseeing in Nagasaki.

Related Information

• Official name: Suwa Shrine Autumn Grand Festival (popularly, Nagasaki Kunchi)
• Location: Nagasaki City, Nagasaki Prefecture (Suwa Shrine, Central Park, Otabisho, Yasaka Shrine)
• Dates: October 7-9 every year (same dates each year)
• Status: one of the Three Great Kunchi of Japan (with Hakata Kunchi and Karatsu Kunchi) / National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property
• Origin: 1634 (Kanei 11), the dedication of the Noh chant Komai by courtesans
• Dancing towns: 58 towns in the city divided into seven groups, with the turn to dedicate coming once every seven years
• Main performances: Ja-odori dragon dance, spouting whale, Kokkodesho, kawabune, and others

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