Overview

Hakata Matsubayashi is a traditional performing art held annually on May 3 and 4 in Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture. It has been designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan. The event consists of a procession featuring the Three Gods of Good Fortune, namely Fukujin (Fukurokuju), Ebisu (a married couple of Ebisu), and Daikoku, along with children's dances performed by young girls called Chigo. This art form is a medieval performing art intended for offering congratulations.

Hakata Matsubayashi is managed by a unique regional organization called "Nagare," which is based on the town planning conducted by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The three gods of good fortune are handled by three streams: Fukujin Nagare, Ebisu Nagare, and Daikoku Nagare. The children's dances are alternately managed by Chigo Higashi Nagare and Chigo Nishi Nagare, with the two streams taking turns every two years. Each stream has a rotating duty system at the town level, and the equipment, including the sacred masks and umbrella halberds, is handed over annually.

History and Origin

Matsubayashi was a popular performing art during the medieval period, involving the recitation of celebratory words and the performance of various arts at the beginning of the new year. It is also referred to as "Matsubai" or "Matsuso" in historical documents. The diary "Kamon Gyoki" records that on the seventh day of the first month in the twenty-third year of the Oei era (1416), villagers from the Fushimi area organized a Matsubayashi and visited a noble's residence. In Hakata, the diary "Sakugen Nyuminki" by the monk Sakugen Shuryo, who stayed in Hakata as a vice-envoy on a tally trade ship, confirms that Matsubayashi was performed on the sixth and seventh days of the first month in the eighth year of the Tenbun era (1539).

According to the tea ceremony diary "Sotan Nikki" by the wealthy Hakata merchant Kamiya Sotan, on the twenty-ninth day of the tenth month in the fourth year of the Bunroku era (1595), Hakata townspeople visited Najima Castle at the command of Kobayakawa Hidekatsu (Hideaki), the lord of Chikuzen Province, and performed Matsubayashi as a congratulatory offering. Records from that time already mention Fukujin and Ebisu, indicating that Matsubayashi had become established as a New Year's event for the feudal lord. The scholar Kaibara Ekken, in the fourth volume of "Chikuzennokuni Zokufudoki" presented to the feudal lord in the sixteenth year of the Genroku era (1703), described the scene in detail: on the fifteenth day of the first month, figures of Fukurokuju, Ebisu, and Daikokuten were placed on horses, celebratory songs were chanted, and at the end, children performed dances.

During the early modern period, the event was held on January 15 as a congratulatory ceremony for the Kuroda family, the feudal lords of the domain, conducted by Hakata townspeople. However, in November of the fifth year of the Meiji era (1872), a decree was issued prohibiting Matsubayashi due to concerns over extravagance and wasteful spending, forcing a temporary suspension. The people of Hakata strongly desired its revival, and in the twelfth year of Meiji (1879), the event was revived under the new name "Hakata Dontaku." The term "Dontaku" is said to derive from the Dutch word "zondag," meaning holiday. After World War II, the event became part of the Hakata Dontaku Port Festival, and on March 16, 2020, it was designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.

Highlights

Procession of the Three Gods of Good Fortune

The procession of the three gods of good fortune proceeds through the town in a fixed order: the herald, the representative of the stream, children chanting celebratory words, the umbrella halberd, and finally the three gods of good fortune riding on sacred horses. Fukujin Nagare presents Fukurokuju, Ebisu Nagare presents a married couple of Ebisu, and Daikoku Nagare presents Daikoku, each stream venerating a different deity. When the procession visits homes and businesses, the herald announces the arrival, the stream representative delivers a formal address, and everyone raises both hands in blessing with the shout "You-taa," a heartfelt scene of communal celebration.

Children's Dances (Chigo Mai)

The children's dances are performed by young girls wearing celestial crowns called "Higashi no Kan" or "Nishi no Kan," accompanied by a ground vocalist, flute, small hand drum, large hand drum, and a large drum. The instrumentalists are boys, and the ground vocalist is an adult man, a distinctive feature of this tradition. Unlike the processions of the three gods, the children's streams do not form a single procession but divide into four groups named Pine, Bamboo, Plum, and Longevity, visiting designated locations to perform their dances. Each group typically consists of one dancer and one instrumentalist for each role, but sometimes groups combine for ensemble performances.

Celebratory Chants and Drums

When each stream travels through the town, children primarily beat drums and chant celebratory phrases called "iitate" in rhythm. For the three gods of good fortune, a tightened drum is attached to a handle made of strings or ropes, and the children walk while beating the drums. The chants of the Daikoku stream, including phrases like "Matsuyane matsuyane, komatsuyane komatsuyane, matsu no kage nite tomi hashimase," are recorded in the local gazetteer "Sekijoshi" from the second year of the Meiwa era (1765). These chants are deeply rooted in medieval performing arts.

Teippon (Hand Clapping Ritual)

"Teippon," a unique hand-clapping ritual of Hakata, is an important ceremonial element of the Matsubayashi. On May 3, after each stream visits homes in the town, they gather at Kushida Shrine to receive purification from Shinto priests. After the children's dances are performed, the participants perform the teippon clap. At the end, the three streams of the gods of good fortune gather again to perform teippon before disbanding.

Umbrella Halberds (Kasahoko)

The umbrella halberd is a significant item that leads the procession of the three gods of good fortune. It consists of a pole decorated with six hanging panels bearing auspicious characters and paintings. The "Hakata Tsuyoroku" records that in the eighth year of the Kanbun era (1668), the Fukuoka domain issued a decree prohibiting the use of gold and silver foil on the fabric of the umbrella halberds, indicating that these items were once lavishly decorated. Today, each stream carefully preserves its equipment, with the year's duty group inheriting the entire set from the previous year.

Issoku Ippon (Congratulatory Gifts)

At the locations visited, the hosts present a "issoku ippon," a gift consisting of one bundle (ten books) of suhara paper and one folding fan placed on a wooden stand, as a return gesture. Additionally, they offer monetary gifts, sake, red and white kamaboko (fish cake), and dried goods, reflecting a unique form of interaction rooted in Hakata's merchant culture. After the representative receives the issoku ippon, the stream presents decorative congratulatory items to the host.

Event Information and Access

Date and Time: Held annually on May 3 and 4, usually from 9:00 AM to around 5:00 PM. Please check the official Hakata Dontaku website for the latest schedule and any changes.
Location: Throughout Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture. The event is based at Kushida Shrine and visits places such as the Fukuoka Prefectural Government Office, Fukuoka City Hall, other government offices, temples, shrines, and companies.
Access: Within walking distance from JR Hakata Station. To reach Kushida Shrine, it is about a 5-minute walk from Gion Station on the Subway Airport Line, or about a 10-minute walk from Nakasu-Kawabata Station.
Viewing: The procession parades through the streets and can be viewed freely from the sidewalks. During the Dontaku festival, performance stages are also set up, and the Matsubayashi procession is a key part of the main parade.
Contact: Fukuoka Convention & Visitors Bureau (TEL: 092-733-5050) or the official Hakata Dontaku website.
Notes: The area is extremely crowded during the event. The schedule may change depending on weather conditions, so it is advisable to check local signage and announcements.

Surrounding Information

Kushida Shrine is the chief tutelary shrine of Hakata and serves as a vital base for the Matsubayashi. Within its grounds, visitors can see an ancient ginkgo tree said to be over a thousand years old and a permanent display of the decorated floats used in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa summer festival. Watching the Matsubayashi streams gather for purification rites and the children perform their dances offers a unique experience, drawing many spectators.

Near Hakata Station, the Hakata Machiya Folk Museum provides opportunities to learn about Hakata's traditional culture and history. It features exhibits on Matsubayashi and Dontaku, which are beneficial for understanding the festival's background. Numerous temples and shrines, such as Tocho-ji Temple and Shofuku-ji Temple, are also within walking distance in the Hakata area.

The Fukuoka Asian Art Museum is a specialty museum for modern and contemporary Asian art, and it may host related events during the Matsubayashi period. The Tenjin area is a hub for shopping and dining, offering enjoyment between festival activities. The yatai (food stall) street in Nakasu is a renowned tourist attraction, bustling with visitors in the evening.

Related Information

Hakata Dontaku Port Festival: A citizen-participation festival originating from Hakata Matsubayashi, held annually on May 3 and 4. Approximately 650 groups and about 33,000 participants take part, attracting around two million spectators.
Hakata Gion Yamakasa: Another major traditional event in Hakata, held from July 1 to 15. It is also designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property and is operated by a "Nagare" organization, though different from that of Matsubayashi.
Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property Designation: Hakata Matsubayashi was designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan on March 16, 2020. This recognition came from the evaluation of its historical value and the certainty of its transmission.
Nagare Organization: A unique local organization based on Toyotomi Hideyoshi's town planning, consisting of five streams: Fukujin Nagare, Ebisu Nagare, Daikoku Nagare, Chigo Higashi Nagare, and Chigo Nishi Nagare. Each stream inherits a set of equipment and operates on a town-level rotating duty system.
Alternating System for Children's Streams: Chigo Higashi Nagare and Chigo Nishi Nagare take turns managing the children's dances every two years. The equipment is handed over through ceremonies such as the "Tenkan Watashi" (transfer of the celestial crown), ensuring fair participation by both streams.
Etymology of Dontaku: The name "Dontaku" is widely believed to derive from the Dutch word "zondag," meaning holiday. After the prohibition of Matsubayashi in 1872, this name was adopted when the event was revived in 1879 under the pretext of celebrating a municipal merger.

Hakata Matsubayashi