Nanao Gion Matsuri

Overview

The Nanao Gion Festival is a summer festival held at Ootonushi Shrine (also known as Sanno Shrine) in Sannomachi, Nanao City, Ishikawa Prefecture. It takes place annually on the second Saturday of July and is dedicated to the shrine . During the festival, large lanterns called "Hoto" or "Kiriko," standing 5 to 12 meters tall and weighing approximately one ton, are carried by young men through the streets .

The festival is also commonly known as "O-suzumi Matsuri," or "The Cooling Festival," because the enshrined deity is transferred to a temporary shrine by the seaside to escape the summer heat . The climax occurs at night, when the Kiriko lanterns race around blazing bonfires, creating a breathtaking spectacle. The festival is recognized as part of the Japan Heritage designation "Noto no Kiriko Matsuri," highlighting its cultural significance .

History and Origins

The origins of the Nanao Gion Festival are said to date back to the Heian period (794–1185). According to local tradition, the Gion faith, which flourished at Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto, spread to this region, leading people to invite the enshrined deity of Kyoto's Gion Shrine to ward off epidemics and evil . The festival began as a Gion ceremony, reflecting the deep-seated fear of plagues and the desire for divine protection.

The enshrined deity is Gozu Tenno, who was originally enshrined within the grounds of Anrakuji Temple in Kajimachi, Nanao. However, during the fall of Nanao Castle in 1577 (Tensho 5), the shrine building was destroyed by fire . Subsequently, in 1635 (Kan'ei 12), the deity was merged with Sanno Shrine, leading to the establishment of the present-day Ootonushi Shrine. This merger formalized the shrine's status and laid the foundation for the festival.

The name "O-suzumi Matsuri" originates from the practice of transferring the enshrined deity to a temporary shrine by the seaside to cool off during the hot summer . The Kiriko lanterns serve as guides for the portable shrine (mikoshi) during this procession. The lanterns held a sacred role as beacons illuminating the deity's path.

The festival has traditionally been organized by the neighborhood associations of eastern Nanao City. In recent years, around 11 neighborhood associations have participated. Despite challenges such as depopulation and labor shortages since the Heisei era, the festival continues to be preserved as a vital part of Noto Peninsula's cultural heritage.

Highlights

Kiriko Lantern Rampage The main attraction of the festival is the wild dance of the Kiriko lanterns in the darkness of night. These massive lanterns, standing 5 to 12 meters tall and weighing up to one ton, are carried by groups of over 50 young men . The young men race the lanterns around brightly burning bonfires, creating a scene so intense that spectators often hold their breath in awe. The lanterns whirl and spin with ferocious energy, illuminating the night with their flickering lights.

Shouts and Festival Music The movement of the Kiriko lanterns is coordinated by traditional music played on drums, flutes, and gongs (kane) . The carriers shout "Sa, Iyasaka sa" as they lift the lanterns, followed by "Sakkasai, Sakasassai, Iyasakasa" as they advance . The combination of rhythmic music and powerful shouts amplifies the festival's excitement and energy.

Design and Size of Kiriko The front of each Kiriko lantern features three to four Chinese characters written vertically in sumi ink, while the back is adorned with bold warrior paintings . The size and design vary by neighborhood, with the western part of Kori-machi boasting the largest Kiriko, measuring about 12 meters in height and weighing roughly one ton. Each neighborhood takes pride in its unique lantern, which reflects the identity and craftsmanship of the community.

Procession to the Temporary Shrine The festival's progression begins in the evening when the Kiriko lanterns, after parading through the neighborhoods, gather at a temporary shrine by the seaside, signaled by fireworks . After a purification ritual, the first neighborhood drawn by lottery leads the portable shrine to Ootonushi Shrine. This format preserves the original role of the Kiriko as a guide for the sacred procession, maintaining a centuries-old tradition.

Precise Direction by Leaders The movements of the Kiriko lanterns are meticulously controlled by commanders with rolled-up sleeves . Every action—fast running, slow walking, and stopping—is determined by drum beats and the commander's signals, ensuring perfect coordination among over 50 carriers. This precise direction is a testament to years of experience and disciplined training.

Performance of Nanao Madara At the end of the festival, the last neighborhood performs "Nanao Madara," a traditional celebratory song passed down in Nanao . This song includes lyrics such as "Shukuga, Kaga Naga Kiyo Ei," which express wishes for prosperity and longevity. The melody of Nanao Madara, echoing through the late-night streets, brings a poignant close to the festival.

Event Information and Access

1. Date: Annually on the second Saturday of July. For the latest schedule and details, check the official website of Nanao City .
2. Location: Ootonushi Shrine (Sannomachi, Nanao City) and the eastern part of Nanao City .
3. Organizer/Contact: Nanao City Exchange Promotion Division (Phone: 0767-53-8424) .
4. Public Transportation Access: Alight at JR Nanao Line "Nanao Station," then walk about 15 minutes or take a taxi for about 5 minutes. Nanao is located in central Noto Peninsula, approximately 1.5 hours from Kanazawa Station by limited express.
5. Car Access: About 10 minutes from the Noto Expressway "Nanao IC." However, due to heavy traffic during the festival, public transportation is recommended.
6. Parking: City-operated parking lots and temporary parking may be available, but spaces are limited. Visitors are advised to use public transportation.

Surrounding Areas

Nanao City, where the Nanao Gion Festival takes place, is a port town located in the central part of the Noto Peninsula. Around Ootonushi Shrine, the stage of the festival, traces of the old port town that once thrived as a stop for Kitamae ships remain. Stone-paved alleys and traditional townhouses create a nostalgic atmosphere, and during the festival night, lanterns add a magical touch. The area also features historical sites such as Nanao Castle Ruins and the Noto Shoku-sai Market.

Visitors interested in Noto Peninsula's traditional culture should also explore the Seihakusai Festival, held annually in early May at the same shrine. Seihakusai is one of the three major festivals of Noto and features "deka-yama" (giant floats) standing about 12 meters tall. While both festivals are dedicated to Ootonushi Shrine, they differ in season and form, offering a deeper understanding of Noto's festival culture.

Furthermore, Wakura Onsen, one of Japan's leading hot spring resorts, is about a 30-minute drive from Nanao. Numerous inns with ocean-view open-air baths are available. After experiencing the excitement of the festival, a relaxing soak at Wakura Onsen is a popular itinerary for visitors. Nanao City also serves as a base for exploring the nature and cuisine of the Noto Peninsula.

Related Information

1. Japan Heritage "Noto no Kiriko Matsuri": The Nanao Gion Festival is designated as part of the Japan Heritage "Noto no Kiriko Matsuri," which encompasses Kiriko lantern festivals across the Noto Peninsula. "Kiriko" refers to the large lanterns unique to the region .
2. Ootonushi Shrine: The Shrine hosting the festival, also the site of the Seihakusai Festival. The enshrined deity is Gozu Tenno (also identified as Susanoo-no-Mikoto) .
3. Structure of Kiriko Lanterns: Kiriko are made of wooden frames covered with Japanese paper, lit from within. They typically feature Chinese characters on the front and warrior paintings on the back .
4. Nanao Madara: A traditional celebratory song of Nanao performed at the festival's climax. The lyrics include phrases like "Shukuga, Kaga Naga Kiyo Ei," conveying wishes for celebration and longevity .
5. O-suzumi Matsuri: Another name for the Nanao Gion Festival, meaning "The Cooling Festival," derived from the practice of moving the deity to a temporary shrine by the sea to escape the heat .
6. Volunteer "Matsuri Otasuke-tai": Ishikawa Prefecture has a volunteer system to support neighborhoods facing labor shortages, allowing participants from outside the area to help with festival preparation and operation.

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