Hokkaido Belly Button Festival

Overview

The Hokkai Heso Festival (Hokkai Heso Matsuri) is a summer festival held on the fixed dates of July 28 and 29 each year along the Shin-Aioi shopping street in Furano City, Hokkaido. Its name comes from the fact that Furano sits at roughly the geographic center of Hokkaido—the "navel" (heso) of the island if it were compared to a human body. The star of the festival is the eccentric "Zubara" belly dance, in which dancers paint a large face on their stomachs and dance, and it has become one of Hokkaido's representative summer events, drawing visitors not only from across Japan but from abroad as well. With food stalls, fireworks, and performances by local residents, it is two days on which everyone from children to the elderly can share a smile.

History and Origins

The Hokkai Heso Festival began in 1969, when the Furano civic charter was enacted, as a celebration of the city's growth and the solidarity of its citizens. Behind it lies the pioneering spirit of the settlers who once challenged the virgin forest, drawing strength into the seika-tanden—the center of vital energy said to lie just below the navel—as they felled great trees and broke the land. Beneath the seemingly humorous subject of the "navel," then, lie the very origins of Furano itself and the pride of its people. In 1974 Hokushin Shrine, popularly known as the "Navel Shrine," was founded, and the festival has since been positioned as its annual grand festival. Guided by the idea that "the navel is the bond that ties mother and child," the festival has for more than half a century carried the theme of strengthening bonds—between parent and child, and between the people of Furano and those who visit. Its name spread nationwide after it appeared in the long-running television drama "Kita no Kuni Kara," which continued for over thirty years.

Highlights

The greatest attraction is, without question, the "Zubara" belly dance. Each dancer treats his or her belly as the face of a single person, painting a large face in colorful pigments and hiding the real head beneath a broad hat—so that the belly becomes the face and the hidden head becomes the body. As the dancer twists at the waist and thrusts the belly forward, the "face" changes expression in comical ways, drawing laughter and cheers from the crowds lining the street. The sight of the "navel troupe" parading through town to the tune of the Hokkai Heso ondo—"Haa, mannaka, mannaka no domannaka yo" (the very middle of the middle)—is wonderfully bold, and over the two days more than a hundred teams and a total of some four thousand dancers take part. The painted faces range from kabuki-actor styles to popular characters, and there is no shortage of things to watch: the Hokkai Belly Dance Contest and Children's Belly Dance Contest, which judge the beauty of the painted faces, sense of rhythm, and footwork; demonstrations by the belly-dance preservation society; taiko drumming by the Furano Iyasaka drum group; and calligraphy performances by Furano High School. The official mascot "Hesomaru-kun" also helps liven up the grounds.

Visiting and Access

The Hokkai Heso Festival is held over two days, July 28 and 29 each year, at a special venue (the festival plaza) on the Shin-Aioi shopping street in Furano City. The site is conveniently located about a two-minute walk from JR Furano Station, making it easy to combine with a summer trip to Furano. Seasonal trains add to the sense of travel: the limited express "Furano Lavender Express" from the Sapporo direction, and the sightseeing "Furano-Biei Norokko" train from the Asahikawa direction. For those who would rather dance than merely watch, there is a drop-in participation corner; visitors who apply at the reception on the day can borrow a full costume of happi coat and hat and join the belly dance (numbers are limited). Having a face painted on your own belly and throwing yourself into the dance makes for a special way to experience the Furano summer with your whole body. At the venue, the "Specialty Market Heso Gourmet," gathering local restaurants, also offers tastes unique to Furano.

Nearby Attractions

The Furano-Biei area is one of the signature sightseeing regions of summer Hokkaido. From July into August the lavender fields come into full bloom, and the purple carpet of "Farm Tomita" in particular is known as the very symbol of Furano. Neighboring Biei is home to the "Blue Pond," beloved for its mysterious water color, and to gently rolling hills where farmland weaves a patchwork landscape. Visitors can also enjoy Furano's wine culture overlooking the vineyards, cheese workshops, and the nature of the Daisetsuzan range, which stays cool even in summer. Touring Furano and Biei together with the festival makes for a full taste of the Hokkaido summer.

Related Information

The Hokkai Heso Festival is built around the idea of the "navel of Japan," and the "Shibukawa Heso Festival" in Shibukawa City, Gunma Prefecture, is similarly known for its navel theme. A central marker indicating the geographic center of Hokkaido stands in Furano, symbolizing the city's identity as the island's "navel." The unique conceit of painting a face on the belly is highly photogenic, and its popularity has spread through social media among younger generations and overseas travelers alike. Inheriting the pioneer spirit while dissolving the boundary between watcher and dancer so that the whole town becomes a single ring of laughter—therein lies the essential warmth that has kept this festival beloved for more than half a century.

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