Hatsuuma Festival

Overview

The Hatsuuma Festival (Hatsuuma-sai) at Kagoshima Jingu Shrine is a traditional event held annually on the first Sunday after the old lunar calendar's January 18th in Hayato Town, Kirishima City, Kagoshima Prefecture. It is said to have originated in the Muromachi period, boasting a history of approximately 470 years. The festival is dedicated to prayers for abundant harvests, family safety, livestock prosperity, and the purification of misfortunes, attracting many worshippers from within and outside the prefecture. On the day, about twenty decorated horses known as "Suzukake-uma" (bell-hanging horses) and around 2,000 dancers participate, parading in a colorful procession accompanied by the sounds of drums and shamisen.

This festival is renowned for its distinctive "Suzukake-uma" horses, which are adorned with floral decorations on their saddles and bells hanging from their necks. The horses perform a unique stepping dance, as if dancing to the rhythm, while leading groups of dancers along the shrine approach. This spectacle is rare nationwide, and the festival draws approximately 100,000 visitors each year, making it a representative spring tradition in Kagoshima. On February 12, 2002, the custom was selected as a "folk cultural property requiring recording measures" under the name "Satsuma no Uma Odori no Shuzoku" (Horse Dance Customs of Satsuma).

History and Origin

The origin of the Hatsuuma Festival is traced back to a dream experienced by Shimazu Takahisa, the lord of the region, who was supervising the reconstruction of Kagoshima Jingu Shrine during the Muromachi period. According to tradition, the Bato Kannon (horse-headed Kannon) appeared in his dream, lamenting that it had been neglected in that land and requesting that a hall be built for its enshrinement, promising to protect the country in return. The next morning, when Shimazu Takahisa told Kuwabata, the priest of Shohachimangu (present-day Kagoshima Jingu), about his dream, the priest confessed that he had had exactly the same dream. Furthermore, when a high priest named Nisshu, who lived nearby, came to play Go, he also recounted the same dream. Believing that this triple coincidence was a divine message, they decided to build a hall for Bato Kannon, said in local tradition to be Shofuku-in Kannon-do on the hill of Shishio-oka (now next to the Hayato Gymnasium), and carved a statue of Kannon using a Go board that Shimazu Takahisa had cherished.

The day of the dream was the old calendar's January 18th, which was then established as the festival day. Since then, many Suzukake-uma horses have been led to the shrine for worship, and the custom of making the horses dance while adorned with decorations began. This horse dance custom is rooted in ancient folk beliefs that the mountain god rides a horse to become the god of the rice fields, a tradition found in various parts of southern Kyushu. Similar horse dance customs were observed at other shrines, including Shibi Shrine in Izumi City, Wakamiya Hachiman in Yuzui Town, Suiten Shrine in Isa City, Hojin Shrine in Isa City, and Yunomoto Onsen in Hioki City.

The original purpose of the Hatsuuma Festival was to pray for the health and fertility of horses and for abundant agricultural harvests. In modern times, however, people also pray for purification from evil, celebrating longevity, and business prosperity. The horse dance is sometimes performed without horses, only by dancers, at house-raising ceremonies and weddings. In 1963, the festival date was changed from the fixed old calendar date to the first Sunday after the old calendar's January 18th, ensuring stable participation.

The festival was recognized as a significant folk performing art in 2002, when "Satsuma no Uma Odori no Shuzoku" was selected as a folk cultural property requiring recording measures. This designation acknowledges the deep connection between the horse dance and agricultural rituals in southern Kyushu, highlighting the importance of regional cultural heritage.

Highlights

The Graceful Dance of the Suzukake-uma Horses The Suzukake-uma horses are adorned with bell necklaces, flower decorations, and brocade saddles. They step in place, lifting their front legs high as if dancing, synchronized to the music of drums and shamisen. This stepping is the result of over a month of intensive training, and the horses often retain the stepping habit for some time after the festival.

Colorful Horse Tack and Decorations Each horse is decorated with unique colors and patterns, with elaborate saddles, chest ornaments, and reins. The bells on the horses' necks produce a clear, soothing sound as they walk. This decoration is based on the belief that horses should be adorned as sacred vehicles, conveying an ancient, ritualistic atmosphere to spectators.

Live Music of Drums and Shamisen Behind the Suzukake-uma horses, a band of musicians playing drums and shamisen follows, setting the rhythm for the entire procession. The brisk tones of the shamisen harmonize the horse's steps and the dancers' movements, creating a distinctive vitality. This music was originally played at agricultural festivals celebrating planting and harvest, and it now serves as a precious link to regional musical traditions.

Energetic Dance Troupes Dozens of dancers follow each horse, waving their arms and stamping their feet as they march along the approach. The total number of dancers reaches about 2,000, each wearing matching costumes and headbands, heightening the festival's excitement. Spectators are overwhelmed by the unity of horses and dancers, and the streets are filled with applause and cheers.

The Lingering "Habit" of the Horses The horses that participate in the festival learn a distinctive stepping motion different from normal walking. This habit remains for some time after the festival, a testament to the long collaboration between horse and trainer. Local horse owners take pride in this habit and begin preparing for the next year's training soon after.

Prayers for Abundant Harvests and Purification The central prayers of the Hatsuuma Festival are for abundant harvests, family safety, livestock prosperity, and purification from evil. The dedication of the Suzukake-uma horses symbolizes prayers for the health and reproduction of horses, as well as the prosperity of agriculture. In modern times, many visitors also pray for business success and protection from misfortune, making the festival a vital communal religious event.

Event Information and Access

• Date: Annually on the first Sunday after the old lunar calendar's January 18th (usually in March). Check the official website for the latest schedule.
• Time: 9:30 AM to 4:00 PM (the Suzukake-uma horses are presented at intervals of about 20 minutes starting from 9:30 AM).
• Location: Kagoshima Jingu Shrine and its vicinity (2496 Hayato-cho, Kirishima City, Kagoshima Prefecture)
• Admission: Free (open to all)
• Access:
  • By car: Approximately 15 minutes from Kagoshima Airport; about 5 minutes from the Hayato-nishi Interchange on the Higashi-Kyushu Expressway (via the Hayato Road); about 25 minutes from the Mizobe-Kagoshima Airport Interchange on the Kyushu Expressway.
  • By train: About 15 minutes on foot from JR Hayato Station on the Nippo Main Line.
  • Public transportation is strongly recommended, as traffic restrictions (pedestrian-only zones) are enforced in the vicinity on the festival day, making vehicle access impossible.
• Contact: Hatsuuma Festival Executive Committee (Kirishima City Tourism PR Section) Phone: 0995-64-0895 (or 0995-45-5111)
• Official Information: The latest details, including traffic regulation maps, can be found on the Kirishima City tourism website.

Nearby Information

Kagoshima Jingu Shrine is located in the heart of Hayato Town, Kirishima City. Its main hall and worship hall, painted in vermilion, are architecturally significant. Nearby, the hill of Shishio-oka (next to the Hayato Gymnasium) is the site where Shofuku-in Kannon-do was built, marking the birthplace of the Hatsuuma Festival legend. On the festival day, this area becomes a pedestrian-only zone, with food stalls and vendor booths, bustling with families.

The approach from JR Hayato Station to the shrine is about a 15-minute walk, lined with local shops and restaurants. During the festival, these establishments often offer special menus, contributing to the community-wide celebration. The area around Hayato Station also has hot spring facilities and accommodations, making it convenient for visitors from afar.

Kirishima City offers numerous tourist attractions beyond Kagoshima Jingu Shrine, including Kirishima Jingu (another shrine), the natural scenery of the Kirishima mountain range, and the Kirishima Onsen hot spring area. Guided model courses are available for visitors to explore these sites before or after the festival. However, due to the strict traffic restrictions on the festival day, using public transportation is strongly recommended.

Related Information

• Kagoshima Jingu Shrine: The main venue of the festival, located in Hayato Town, Kirishima City. Its main hall is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Japan, and the shrine holds many other events throughout the year.
• Suzukake-uma Horse Dance: A performing art in which horses are decorated with bells and flowers and made to step in rhythm to music. It is a type of horse dance unique to southern Kyushu, with the Kagoshima Jingu version being the most famous.
• Bato Kannon (Horse-headed Kannon) Worship: The Bato Kannon that appeared in Shimazu Takahisa's dream is a guardian deity of horses. The statue carved from a Go board enshrined in Shofuku-in Kannon-do is considered its physical manifestation.
• Satsuma no Uma Odori no Shuzoku: Designated in 2002 as a folk cultural property requiring recording measures. This custom is also observed at Shibi Shrine, Wakamiya Hachiman, Suiten Shrine, Hojin Shrine, and Yunomoto Onsen, among others.
• Difference from Other Hatsuuma Festivals: The Hatsuuma Festival at Kagoshima Jingu is distinct from the Hatsuuma festivals held at Inari shrines nationwide. While Inari shrine festivals celebrate the fox deity's enshrined day, Kagoshima's festival is rooted in Bato Kannon worship and features horse dances.
• Shimazu Takahisa and Nisshu: Key historical figures in the festival's origin. Shimazu Takahisa was a daimyo of the Shimazu clan, and Nisshu was a high priest said to have been active in this area at the time.
• Shofuku-in Kannon-do: The temple built on Shishio-oka hill (now beside the Hayato Gymnasium). It is venerated as the birthplace of the Hatsuuma Festival, and pilgrims still visit the site.

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