Hamasaki Gion Yamakasa

Overview

The Hamasaki Gion Yamakasa is a festival held at the Gion shrine located within the grounds of Suwa Shrine in Hamasaki, Hamatamacho, Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture. It takes place annually on the Saturday and Sunday following Marine Day in July, featuring three giant floats called yamakasa, each approximately 15 meters tall and weighing about 5 tons, which parade through the town. These floats are among the largest of their kind in Japan, and the festival was designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Karatsu City on May 10, 2002.

The festival is organized by three districts: Hama-ku (fishermen), Nishi-ku (farmers), and Higashi-ku (merchants), with each district creating and operating one float. The floats are accompanied by the Hamasaki no Yamabayashi, a unique ensemble of flute, drum, bell, and shamisen that enhances the festive atmosphere. Although preparations take half a year, the floats are completely dismantled overnight after the two-day event, leaving no trace by the next morning, a transience that is a characteristic feature of the festival.

The official name of the festival itself is the “Hamasaki Gion Festival,” while “Hamasaki Gion Yamakasa” refers to the floats and the preservation association. It is also designated under the name “Hamasaki Gion Festival” as a Karatsu City Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property.

History and Origins

The origins of the Hamasaki Gion Festival are said to date back to the mid-Edo period, specifically 1753. According to tradition, a fishing net wholesaler named Kyuhei Nakamura, praying for the end of epidemics and abundant harvests, created three floats modeled after the Gion yamakasa of Hakata Kushida Shrine and dedicated them to the Gion shrine of Suwa Shrine. This was a time of great hardship, including the Kyoho famine and the Tenmei famine, when poor harvests and natural disasters plagued the common people, making their prayers for the end of epidemics and abundant harvests deeply heartfelt.

Initially started as a prayer for the end of epidemics and abundant harvests, the festival later also included prayers for business prosperity. The three floats reflect the characteristics of their respective districts: Hama-ku (fishermen), Nishi-ku (farmers), and Higashi-ku (merchants), and they have been passed down to the present day. Originally held around June 15 of the lunar calendar, the festival was later fixed on July 14 and 15 for many years. It was changed to the last Saturday and Sunday of July in 1985, then to July 20 and 21 in 1996. Subsequently, to avoid the rainy season and facilitate outdoor assembly work, the festival was moved to the Saturday and Sunday following Marine Day in July.

The height of the floats has changed over time. Records from 1909 indicate a height of approximately 14.4 meters, and a newspaper from 1925 recorded a height of about 20 meters. However, as the town modernized and telephone and power lines were installed, height became an issue. When telephone service was introduced in 1923, some residents reportedly said they did not need telephones because the wires would interfere with the floats, demonstrating how much the townspeople valued the Gion Festival.

After World War II, as roads were paved with asphalt, burying power lines became difficult, and the float height was temporarily reduced to 13 meters. However, through community efforts, including raising utility poles, the current height of 15 meters was restored. The festival was canceled in 1948 and 1949 due to post-war confusion and material shortages. Despite the cancellations, young people in the districts created makeshift floats using flatbed carts and even decorated bicycles to parade through the town. In 2015, the second day was canceled due to an approaching typhoon, and in 2020, the entire festival was canceled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, marking the first full cancellation in 71 years since 1949.

Highlights

The Impact of the Giant Floats The floats, standing approximately 15 meters tall and weighing about 5 tons, are among the largest in Kyushu. Although historical records from 1925 show heights of up to 20 meters, the current height is maintained at 15 meters to accommodate overhead power lines. The sight of these colossal structures being pulled by human power through the town is breathtaking, and the overwhelming presence as they pass by captivates spectators.

The Thrill of the O-magiri The climax of the festival is the O-magiri, a spinning performance held on the final night. The three illuminated floats gather in front of Suwa Shrine, where the pullers rotate them dozens of times on the spot amid shouts and cheers. This maneuver showcases the skill of the pullers in handling the ropes, and the combination of the floats' weight and the pullers' technique represents the essence of the Hamasaki Gion Yamakasa.

Float Structure and Decoration The floats are constructed by erecting five pillars on a flatbed cart, then decorating them with miniature buildings and dolls. The front side is called Omote-yama, and the back side is called Ura-yama. Decoration on both sides became common only from the Meiji period onward. Omote-yama typically features historical themes, while Ura-yama is often adorned with fairy tales or children's stories. Skilled craftsmen known as yamatsukuri-san, who once existed in each district, oversaw the meticulous decoration process under strict guidance to create beautiful floats.

The Oshioi Ritual On the first day of the festival, pullers go to the beach to collect sea sand, called oshioi. This sand is spread under the floats, and on the second day, the pullers, purified by the oshioi, visit houses throughout the town, symbolically transferring the town's misfortune onto the floats. This ritual serves to purify the town and ward off evil, forming a core spiritual element of the festival.

The Sounds of the Hamasaki no Yamabayashi The festival is accompanied by the Hamasaki no Yamabayashi, a unique musical ensemble featuring flute, drum, bell, and shamisen. This music has its own distinct melody, different from that of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa. The combination of the music, the pullers' chant of "Yoi-yasa," and the movement of the floats creates a powerful and immersive festive atmosphere.

District-Specific Themes The three floats, representing the fisherman district (Hama-ku), the farmer district (Nishi-ku), and the merchant district (Higashi-ku), each have their own thematic preferences for the Omote-yama decorations. Hama-ku tends to favor themes from historical TV dramas, Higashi-ku prefers Kabuki themes, and Nishi-ku leans toward obscure historical topics. These themes change annually, reflecting the interests of the district's organizing committee, and comparing the different floats is a popular pastime for visitors.

The Fleeting Beauty of a Single Night After the two days of the festival, the floats are completely dismantled overnight. The giant structures, which took six months to prepare, vanish without a trace by dawn. The empty space left behind evokes a sense of melancholy after the excitement of the festival, and this transience is a unique and cherished aspect of the Hamasaki Gion Festival.

Event Information and Access

1. Dates: Annually on the Saturday and Sunday following Marine Day (mid-July). Check the official website of the Hamasaki Gion Yamakasa Promotion Association for the latest schedule and confirmation of the event.
2. Location: Suwa Shrine and surrounding area (Hamasaki, Hamatamacho, Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture)
3. Public Transport Access: Approximately 5 minutes on foot from Hamasaki Station on the JR Chikuhi Line.
4. Car Access: Approximately 5 minutes (1 km) via National Route 323 from the Hamatama IC on the Nijodamawari Road (Nishikyushu Expressway).
5. Parking: Free parking available (approximately 200 spaces). Traffic regulations are enforced in the surrounding area during the festival; follow local guidance.
6. Admission: Free. No designated paid seating areas.
7. Contact: Karatsu City Commerce, Industry, and Tourism Department, Tourism Section.

Surrounding Area Information

Hamasaki in Hamatamacho, where the festival is held, has historically been a thriving area for fishing and agriculture. Suwa Shrine is also known as a shrine for protection against vipers, and the Gion Shrine is located within its grounds. The old main road remains around the shrine, and during the festival, numerous food stalls line the streets, creating a lively atmosphere. The area is relatively accessible, being a five-minute walk from JR Hamasaki Station.

Karatsu City is also famous for the Karatsu Kunchi festival, known for its parade of floats. While the Karatsu Kunchi is held in November, the Hamasaki Gion Festival takes place in July, allowing visitors to compare the two distinct float cultures. A key difference is that the floats in Karatsu Kunchi are meant to guard the portable shrine, whereas in Hamasaki, the deity resides in the gohei (paper streamers) placed on the float, giving them a different spiritual significance.

Nearby tourist attractions include the Rainbow Pine Grove, a nationally designated Special Place of Scenic Beauty known for its beautiful pine forest, and Karatsu Castle, which offers panoramic views of the Genkai Sea from its keep. Many visitors to the Hamasaki Gion Festival also explore these sites before or after the event. The Hamasaki coast also features restaurants where visitors can enjoy fresh local seafood.

Related Information

1. Cultural Property Designation: Designated as an Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Karatsu City on May 10, 2002.
2. Number of Floats: Three (one each from Hama-ku, Nishi-ku, and Higashi-ku).
3. Float Dimensions: Approximately 15 meters in height, weighing about 5 tons. Historical records indicate a height of about 20 meters in the past.
4. Origin Legend: The festival is said to have begun in 1753 when fishing net wholesaler Kyuhei Nakamura created three floats modeled after the Hakata Gion Yamakasa.
5. Music: The Hamasaki no Yamabayashi, performed on flute, drum, bell, and shamisen, has a unique melody distinct from that of the Hakata Gion Yamakasa.
6. Oshioi Sand Ritual: A ritual conducted on the first day where sand is collected from the sea and spread under the floats to symbolically transfer the town's misfortunes away.
7. O-magiri: A highlight performance on the final night where the floats are spun repeatedly in front of Suwa Shrine, showcasing the pullers' skillful rope handling.
8. Similar Festivals: Hakata Gion Yamakasa (Fukuoka City), Karatsu Kunchi (Karatsu City), and Yobuko Dainenbutsu (Karatsu City) are part of the broader float culture in northern Kyushu.
9. Historical Cancellations: The festival was canceled in 1948, 1949, and 1961. The second day was canceled due to typhoons in 1995 and 2015. The entire festival was canceled in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the first full cancellation in 71 years since 1949.
10. Float Storage: The central pillars of the floats were traditionally stored under the floors of temples (Yokisho-ji for Nishi-ku, Zuiun-ji for Higashi-ku, and Saifuku-ji for Hama-ku). They are now kept in a storage facility at the Hamasaki Gion Yamabayashi Hozonkai (Preservation Society) Hall.

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