Aoi Matsuri

Overview

Aoi Matsuri is the annual festival of Kamigamo Shrine (Kamo-wakeikazuchi Shrine) and Shimogamo Shrine (Kamo-mioya Shrine) in Kyoto, held on May 15 every year. During the mid-Heian period, this festival was so prominent that people simply referred to it as "the festival," making it one of the oldest festivals in Kyoto. Along with Gion Matsuri in July and Jidai Matsuri in October, it is counted among the three major festivals of Kyoto, with its origins dating back approximately 1,500 years.

The name "Aoi" comes from the tradition of decorating all participants, ox-drawn carts, horses, and cattle with leaves of the double-leaved hollyhock (futaba-aoi). This plant serves as the crest of both Kamo shrines, and the Tokugawa clan's "mitsuba-aoi" crest is said to have its origins in this same hollyhock. The procession consists of approximately 500 people dressed in Heian period costumes, 36 horses, 4 oxen, 2 ox-drawn carts, and 1 palanquin, parading about 8 kilometers from the Kenrei-mon gate of the Kyoto Imperial Palace to Shimogamo Shrine and then to Kamigamo Shrine.

The festival comprises three main components: ceremonies at the Imperial Palace, the procession along the street known as "Roto-no-gi," and the ceremonies at the shrines called "Shato-no-gi." Currently, Roto-no-gi and Shato-no-gi are open to the public, offering a scene reminiscent of a Heian period picture scroll with faithfully reproduced aristocratic costumes and furnishings. This festival provides a valuable opportunity to experience Japan's traditional aesthetic sensibilities, attracting numerous visitors from Japan and abroad.

History and Origin

The origins of Aoi Matsuri date back to the 6th century, during the reign of Emperor Kinmei, the 29th emperor, before the capital was moved to Heian-kyo. According to the "Kamo Kyuki" (Old Records of Kamo), severe storms and poor harvests of the five grains plagued the land, leading the emperor to order a divination by Urabe no Iki no Wakamiko. The divination revealed that the calamities were caused by the curse of the great deity of Kamo. Following the oracle, a festival was held on the day of the Middle Rooster in the fourth month of the old calendar, where horses with bells were made to run and people wore boar-head masks in a race. The storms subsided, the harvests became abundant, and the nation prospered, according to tradition. This story marks the beginning of Aoi Matsuri, establishing it as a ritual praying for bountiful harvests.

With the establishment of the Heian period, in 819, the festival was elevated to a national event under the imperial legal code, treated as one of the most important regular rites. During this era, Kamo Shrine was revered as the guardian shrine of the entire nation, and the emperor dispatched imperial envoys to pray for peace, establishing the festival as an imperial offering. Aoi Matsuri became one of the "Three Major Imperial Festivals of Japan," alongside the Iwashimizu Festival at Iwashimizu Hachiman-gu and the Kasuga Festival at Kasuga Taisha. By the mid-Heian period, it was so popular among the aristocracy that "the festival" meant Aoi Matsuri.

However, Aoi Matsuri experienced several periods of interruption. Following the Onin War from 1467 to 1477, the procession disappeared for about 200 years. It was revived during the Genroku era (1688–1704), with the support of the imperial court and the Tokugawa shogunate. During this revival, the tradition of decorating ox-drawn carts, envoys' costumes, and livestock with double-leaved hollyhock leaves became established, giving the festival its current name of "Aoi Matsuri."

In the Meiji period, the procession was suspended again from 1871 to 1883 due to the relocation of the capital to Tokyo. It was revived in 1884 as part of the government's strategy to revitalize Kyoto, but was suspended once more during World War II from 1943 to 1952. Only the shrine ceremonies continued during that time. After the war, the procession resumed in 1953, and the role of Saiodai was introduced in 1956. The traditions of the Heian court have been faithfully preserved through these interruptions and are still maintained today.

Highlights

The Grand Procession of Roto-no-gi The highlight of the festival is Roto-no-gi, the procession that departs from the Kenrei-mon gate of the Kyoto Imperial Palace at 10:30 a.m. on May 15. The procession consists of two main columns: the main column centered on the imperial envoy, and the Saiodai column following behind. A total of about 500 people, all dressed in authentic Heian costumes, proceed slowly along the route. This procession, covering approximately 8 kilometers over about three hours from Shimogamo Shrine to Kamigamo Shrine, creates an illusion of traveling back in time to the Heian period.

The Imperial Envoy on Horseback The highest-ranking participant in the procession is the "Konoetsukaidai," who serves as the proxy for the imperial envoy. In the modern procession, the actual imperial envoy does not participate, so the Konoetsukaidai, dressed in white ceremonial robes with wisteria flower decorations, rides a beautifully adorned horse. This figure represents the court ceremonies of the Heian period and draws the attention of spectators.

The Shining Presence of the Saiodai The Saiodai is the modern representative of the Saio, an unmarried imperial princess who once served as a priestess at Kamo Shrine. The Saiodai is chosen annually from among unmarried women with ties to Kyoto, and she appears in a magnificent twelve-layered kimono (junihitoe), riding in a palanquin called a "yoyo." As the festival approaches, news of "Who will be this year's Saiodai?" becomes a topic of conversation throughout Kyoto, highlighting her role as the festival's heroine.

The Ornate Umbrella and Ox-Drawn Cart The procession is adorned with a "furyu-gasa," a large umbrella decorated with beautiful flowers, and two ox-drawn carts with wisteria blossoms hanging from their eaves. The furyu-gasa is a traditional decoration that adds color and elegance to the parade. The ox-drawn carts are reproductions of Heian period vehicles, and their furnishings convey historical value and the courtly aesthetics of the era.

The Ceremony at the Shrines and Azuma-asobi Dance When the procession arrives at each shrine, the "Shato-no-gi" ceremony takes place. The imperial envoy presents a prayer text and offerings to the deities. Following this, in a graceful atmosphere reminiscent of the Heian period, shrine dancers perform the "Azuma-asobi," a traditional dance that has been handed down from ancient times. The dance fills the shrine grounds with a solemn and elegant ambiance.

Yabusame and Kamo Kurabe-uma On May 3, the "Yabusame" event is held at the Tadasu-no-mori forest of Shimogamo Shrine, where mounted archers shoot arrows at three targets set 100 meters apart. Arrows that hit the targets are considered auspicious, and the targets are awarded to the public as lucky charms. On May 5, "Kamo Kurabe-uma" takes place at Kamigamo Shrine, where riders in red (left side) and black (right side) costumes race their horses. It is traditionally believed that if the red-left side wins more races, the year will bring a bountiful harvest.

Event Information and Access

1. Date and Time: Annually on May 15 (postponed to May 16 in case of rain). Roto-no-gi procession departs at 10:30 a.m. from the Kenrei-mon gate of the Kyoto Imperial Palace. Please check the official Kyoto Travel Navi website for the latest schedule and availability.
2. Venue and Route: Starting point is the Kyoto Imperial Palace, proceeding to Shimogamo Shrine, and then to Kamigamo Shrine. The procession itself extends about 1 kilometer in length, covering a total distance of approximately 8 kilometers.
3. Access to Kyoto Imperial Palace: Approximately 5 to 10 minutes walk from Marutamachi Station or Imadegawa Station on the Karasuma Subway Line. Also accessible by city bus getting off at "Karasuma Imadegawa" or "Karasuma Marutamachi" stops.
4. Access to Shimogamo Shrine: Accessible by city bus or Kyoto Bus getting off at "Shimogamo Jinja-mae" stop, or about 10 minutes walk from Demachiyanagi Station on the Eizan Railway.
5. Paid Seating Areas: Reserved seating is available at three locations: within the Kyoto Imperial Garden, along the approach to Shimogamo Shrine, and along the approach to Kamigamo Shrine. Prices vary by year; please refer to announcements by the Kyoto City Tourism Association for details. Please refer to the Kyoto City Tourism Association for details.
6. Free Viewing Spots: Along Kamo-dori Street (on the Kamo River embankment), visitors can view the procession with the backdrop of the Higashiyama mountain range and the clear stream of the Kamo River. The area around the Kyoto Imperial Palace is recommended in the morning, while Kamo-dori is better in the afternoon.
7. Important Notes: Traffic restrictions are in effect on the day, and areas along the procession route become pedestrian zones. Visitors should prepare for heat and crowds. The decision to postpone due to rain is announced on the morning of the event.

Surrounding Area Information

The Kyoto Imperial Palace was the residence of the emperor from the Heian period to the Meiji period and is now open to the public. The area around the Kenrei-mon gate, the starting point of the procession, is a spacious green space popular as a photography spot with the procession in the background. The palace grounds include famous landmarks such as the "Okuruma-gaeshi-no-sakura" cherry tree, making it a recommended place for a stroll before or after viewing the festival.

Shimogamo Shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the "Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto." Its Tadasu-no-mori forest is a valuable natural environment preserving a primeval woodland. The forest is home to about 600 plant species, allowing visitors to experience ancient nature within the city. The Yabusame event on May 3 takes place in this forest, creating a fantastical scene of horses galloping through the filtered sunlight.

Kamigamo Shrine is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its main hall designated as a national treasure and several other buildings designated as important cultural properties. Particularly famous is the "Tatezuna," a mound of sand symbolizing the sacred mountain, which conveys the shrine's founding history. During the Aoi Matsuri period, the grounds host Kamo Kurabe-uma and Shato-no-gi ceremonies, creating a unique atmosphere where the excitement of the festival coexists with the tranquility of the shrine.

Related Information

1. Three Major Festivals of Kyoto: Aoi Matsuri in May, Gion Matsuri in July, and Jidai Matsuri in October. Among these, Aoi Matsuri has the oldest origin.
2. Three Major Imperial Festivals of Japan: Aoi Matsuri (Kamo Festival), Iwashimizu Festival at Iwashimizu Hachiman-gu in Kyoto, and Kasuga Festival at Kasuga Taisha in Nara. These are festivals to which the emperor dispatches an imperial envoy.
3. Connection to The Tale of Genji: In the "Aoi" chapter of Murasaki Shikibu's masterpiece, a scene depicts spectators at the Kamo Festival, where a brawl breaks out between the attendants of Hikaru Genji and Lady Rokujo. This illustrates how important the festival was even among the Heian aristocracy.
4. Futaba-aoi (Double-leaved Hollyhock): A plant of the Aristolochiaceae family, used as the crest of both Kamo shrines. The plant is delivered annually from both shrines to the Imperial Palace for use in decorating the procession. The Tokugawa clan's triple-hollyhock crest also derives from this plant.
5. Selection of the Saiodai: This tradition began in 1956. The Saiodai is chosen annually from among unmarried women with ties to Kyoto. After selection, she undergoes purification rites on May 4 and participates in the main procession on May 15.
6. Historical Interruptions: The festival has been suspended three times: after the Onin War (approximately 200 years), during the early Meiji period (1871 to 1883, 12 years), and during World War II (1943 to 1952, 9 years). It has continued uninterrupted since its revival in 1953.

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